The French army fell in love with Makgeolli???
FOOD TOUR episode#03
After Chinese forces joined the Korean War, UN troops found themselves in a relentless retreat, surrendering Seoul to the enemy again in early January 1951. It was in February, at Jipyeong-ri, that the French battalion faced three divisions of the much larger Chinese army and emerged victorious in the "Battle of Jipyeong-ri" of the Korean War history. The temporary headquarters of the French forces was in a makgeolli (Korean rice wine) brewery. It wasn’t that General Ralph Monclar, the French commander, had a particular fondness for makgeolli,😅 but rather, amidst the destruction, this building remained intact, serving as their command post.👌
Constructed in 1925 during the Japanese occupation, the brewery has been restored as a historical site. The “Jipyeong” makgeolli is now one of the most popular options among young people in the market. The brewery's success isn’t just because current people drink its makgeolli to celebrate the victory at Jipyeong-ri every day.😅 No, it’s the savvy of the fourth-generation owner that has driven sales up significantly, by lowering the alcohol content by one degree and adjusting the packaging to appeal to a younger crowd.
To make makgeolli, you need nuruk (fermentation starter), rice, water, and time. The rice must be rinsed several times, soaked, steamed until fluffy, and then spread out to cool. Next, it’s mixed with nuruk and water in a jar and fermented at about 27 degrees Celsius (80 degrees Fahrenheit) for six days. In mass production, longer fermentation is used to increase alcohol content. However, when rice sugars convert to alcohol, sweetness is lost, leading many to add aspartame, an artificial sweetener. For consumers who don’t want that, more rice must be used, which increases production costs and, ultimately, prices. Personally, I seek out makgeolli without aspartame, even if it costs more. Why? Because it tastes far better.👍👍
Here are a few examples of makgeolli (noting that I have no commercial ties to these companies 😅):
- Summer Delight: Grape makgeolli, 10%, 750ml
- Naroo: Fresh makgeolli, 6%, 800ml
- Architect's Makgeolli: Naturally carbonated, 6.5%, 930ml
- Nerdy Hope: Basil makgeolli, 5%, 700ml
- Monkey Makgeolli: Red rice makgeolli, 10.8%, 375ml
- Jipyeong Makgeolli: From the brewery where the French army was stationed, 5%, 750ml
- Jangsu Makgeolli: A representative of Korean makgeolli, 6%, 750ml (the most popular one my father loved😢)
Makgeolli is a traditional Korean liquor that has been passed down through generations. It originated in a farming society, where farmers, after working hard in the fields, would often sit by the rice paddies enjoying a drink to ease their labor. For a time, makgeolli was dismissed, especially in cities. In the mid-1960s, regulations prevented using insufficient and precious rice for alcohol production, forcing brewers to make it from flour instead. Up until the 1990s, the quality of makgeolli hit rock bottom, and I still remember suffering from brutal hangovers after drinking it with friends.
But since the revival of rice makgeolli in the late 2000s, it has surged in popularity domestically and internationally, and its quality has greatly improved. Now, as seen in the examples, a variety of makgeolli is available, especially popular among younger generations. Koreans often choose their drinks based on the side dishes. Drinking makgeolli with seafood pancakes on rainy days is a quintessential part of Korean drinking culture. I invite you to dive into the charm of makgeolli for yourself.😋✔️
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