Even a monk succumbs to temptation!

I’ve never seen or heard a foreigner complain after eating "bulgogi." It’s a signature dish of Korea. Everyone, the young and old, and even Buddha monks in mountain temples, seems to crave it.😅 Bulgogi is fundamentally sweet and savory. Back in the Joseon Dynasty, Koreans only had malt sugars from glutinous rice or natural honey for sweetness. Sugar was a rare import reserved for royal families. It wasn't until the early 20th century, during the Japanese colonial period, that sugarcane introduced from Taiwan allowed domestic sugar production. Koreans gradually got hooked on its sweetness.

The basic bulgogi recipe consists of sugar, soy sauce, and two quintessential Korean ingredients: garlic and sesame oil. Later on, thinly sliced onions, mushrooms, and green onions were added to enhance its flavor. Nowadays, each restaurant has its own secret recipe. Given modern trends and the aversion to sugar, fruits like pears or kiwis are often used to add natural sweetness.

There are regional variations, too. Seoul-style bulgogi includes broth on the fringe and is grilled with the meat on top and middle, while in the southern regions, it’s cooked dry over a grill.

Seoul boasts many bulgogi restaurants, but I’ll share just a few I've visited. (I have no commercial ties with these places.) I think Hanilkwan represents Seoul-style bulgogi well. Though a bit pricier, it offers an excellent range of hansik (Korean dishes) beyond just bulgogi. Samwoojung near downtown City Hall caters to city office workers with its Seoul-style bulgogi as sole menu. Lastly, YukjeonHuigwan serves a unique, no-broth, charcoal-grilled bulgogi, and it’s recognized by the Michelin guide.

Once, there was a stir about bulgogi's origins. A food columnist claimed it descended from Japanese yakiniku. (Koreans really dislike losing to Japan in anything. If you have Korean friends, don’t overly praise Japan before them, or your dinner invites might dry up.😅) The controversy traces back to Koreans consuming more sugar during the Japanese colonial period, with Japan allegedly spreading its culture top-down. But I believe Japan wasn't a meat-eating nation until the late 19th century, while Korea has grilled meat for a long time, as seen in old paintings above. The fusion of sugar with our ancient seasonings like garlic and soy sauce likely evolved into today’s bulgogi. (Of course, scholarly debate continues.) The bottom line is that both Bulgogi and Yakiniku are all yummy!😅✔️